When you think of a diamond engagement ring, your mind probably drifts to the classic round brilliant—a timeless icon of light and fire. But what if your story deserves a different shape? What if the geometry of your love is hexagonal, elongated, or boldly faceted in ways most jewelers have never seen?
Welcome to the world of unusual diamond cuts: a realm where Dutch marquise diamonds elongate fingers with regal grace, where hexagon cuts create architectural intrigue, and where Portuguese and Criss Cut facets transform light into something unexpectedly mesmerizing. If you're ready to step beyond the ordinary and discover cuts that whisper (or shout) individuality, this guide is your roadmap.
Why Unusual Diamond Cuts Are Having a Moment
The rise of unusual diamond cuts isn't just about aesthetics—it's about rejecting cookie-cutter proposals and embracing personal narratives. Modern couples want rings that reflect their values, tastes, and stories. An unusual cut signals thoughtfulness, creativity, and a willingness to stand out.
Beyond symbolism, these cuts often offer practical advantages: elongated shapes can make fingers appear slimmer, geometric cuts pair beautifully with minimalist settings, and vintage-inspired facets carry an heirloom quality that feels both nostalgic and fresh.
And let's be honest: when your ring doesn't look like everyone else's, it becomes a conversation starter, a piece of wearable art, and a daily reminder that your relationship is anything but ordinary.
The Dutch Marquise: Regal Elegance Meets Finger-Flattering Drama
The Dutch marquise, also known as the elongated hexagon cut is a lesser-known cousin of the classic marquise cut, but with a more geometric profile that evokes contemporary elegance. Imagine a shape that's part hexagon, part pointed ellipse—graceful, elongated, and impossibly flattering on the hand.
What Makes It Special
The Dutch marquise typically features either brilliant or step cut faceting, making it versatile enough for the most modern, edgy, or vintage inspired designs.
Pros
- Finger elongation: The stretched silhouette visually slims and lengthens fingers, making it ideal for those who want maximum elegance.
- Carat presence: The shape creates the illusion of a larger diamond, so you get more visual impact per carat.
- Unique charm: It's a rather uncommon cut, so you aren't likely to see another ring just like yours.
Cons
- Tip vulnerability: The pointed ends are prone to chipping if not properly protected with prongs or bezels.
Best For
Edgy souls who want a regal, distinctive look with vintage flair. Pair with yellow or rose gold for warmth, or platinum for crisp, modern elegance.
Hexagon Cut: Geometric Brilliance for the Modern Minimalist
If the Dutch marquise whispers edgy romance, the hexagon cut shouts contemporary confidence. This six-sided wonder is all about clean lines, architectural precision, and a modern aesthetic that pairs beautifully with minimalist settings.
What Makes It Special
Hexagon-cut diamonds are typically step-cut (like emerald or Asscher cuts), meaning their facets are arranged in parallel rows that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. The result? A mesmerizing, kaleidoscopic play of light that's more subtle than a brilliant cut but endlessly captivating.
Pros
- Modern aesthetic: The geometric shape feels fresh, bold, and fashion-forward.
- Versatile: Works beautifully as a center stone or in clusters and halos.
- Unique silhouette: You won't see many hexagon engagement rings in the wild, making yours instantly recognizable.
Cons
- Lower brilliance: Step cuts prioritize clarity and color over sparkle, so inclusions and tint are more visible.
- Limited settings: Fewer off-the-shelf settings accommodate hexagons, so custom or semi-custom work is often required.
Best For
Design-lovers, architects, and anyone who gravitates toward clean lines and contemporary style. Pair with a sleek bezel or minimal prong setting to let the geometry shine.
Criss Cut Diamond: Intersecting Facets, Maximum Sparkle
The Criss Cut is a patented diamond cut that features a unique facet pattern where rows of facets intersect at angles, creating a lattice-like effect. The result is a diamond that sparkles from nearly every angle, with a lively, kinetic energy that's impossible to ignore.
What Makes It Special
Developed by diamond cutter Christopher Slowinski, the Criss Cut combines the elegance of a step cut with the fire of a brilliant cut. The intersecting facets create a distinctive pattern that's both structured and dynamic, offering the best of both worlds.
Pros
- High brilliance: The unique facet arrangement maximizes light return, creating exceptional sparkle.
- Versatile shapes: Available in emerald, cushion, and radiant-inspired shapes.
- Distinctive look: The lattice pattern is immediately recognizable and highly memorable.
Cons
- Limited availability: As a patented cut, Criss Cut diamonds are less common and may require sourcing from specific dealers.
- Higher cost: The precision required for this cut can drive up prices.
Best For
Those who want the clarity and elegance of a step cut without sacrificing sparkle. Ideal for emerald or cushion shapes with modern sensibilities.
Portuguese Cut: Old-World Craftsmanship, Luminous Glow
The Portuguese cut is a true throwback—a facet pattern developed in the early 20th century that emphasizes depth, warmth, and a soft, candlelit glow. Unlike modern brilliant cuts that prioritize fire and scintillation, the Portuguese cut creates a mesmerizing, even luminosity that feels almost magical.
What Makes It Special
Portuguese-cut diamonds feature additional facets on both the crown and pavilion, creating a complex, layered effect. The result is a diamond that glows rather than sparkles—a warm, inviting presence that feels intimate and timeless.
Pros
- Romantic glow: The soft, even light return creates a warm, heirloom quality.
- Vintage appeal: Perfect for those who love Art Deco, Edwardian, or vintage-inspired styles.
- Depth and complexity: The additional facets create visual interest and a sense of craftsmanship.
Cons
- Less fire: The cut prioritizes glow over sparkle, which may not appeal to those seeking maximum brilliance.
- Perceived brightness: In certain lighting, Portuguese cuts can appear less bright than modern brilliant cuts.
Best For
Romantics, vintage enthusiasts, and anyone who values craftsmanship and history. Pair with yellow or rose gold for maximum warmth.
Other Rare Cuts Worth Knowing
Kite Cut
A dramatic, arrow-like silhouette that's bold, modern, and highly distinctive. Perfect for those who want maximum visual impact and aren't afraid to stand out.
Shield Cut
A five-sided shape that's part geometric, part vintage. Offers a unique profile that works beautifully in vintage-inspired settings.
Lozenge Cut
An elongated, diamond-shaped (in the geometric sense) cut that creates a striking, Art Deco vibe. Ideal for those who love symmetry and bold lines.
Rose Cut
A vintage cut with a flat back and domed top covered in triangular facets. Offers a soft, antique glow rather than modern brilliance. A Lilit favorite!
How to Choose an Unusual Diamond Cut: 4 Essential Questions
1. What's Your Priority: Brilliance, Size Perception, or Silhouette?
Different cuts excel at different things. If you want maximum sparkle, consider Criss Cut or modified brilliant cuts. If you want finger elongation and size perception, Dutch marquise or kite cuts deliver. If you want geometric boldness, hexagon or shield cuts are your answer.
2. How Will the Ring Be Worn Daily?
Rings with pointed ends (marquise, kite) require careful setting to protect vulnerable tips. Step cuts show inclusions more readily, so clarity matters. Consider your lifestyle: if you're active, a bezel or protective setting may be wise.
3. What Metal Will You Choose?
White gold and platinum create a cool, modern look that emphasizes a diamond's icy brilliance. Yellow and rose gold add warmth and vintage charm, especially with cuts like Portuguese or rose cuts.
4. Do You Prefer Vintage or Modern Vibes?
Portuguese and rose cuts lean vintage; hexagon and kite cuts lean modern. Dutch marquise bridges both worlds. Let your aesthetic guide your choice.
Caring for Unusual Cuts: Practical Tips
Protect Vulnerable Points
Cuts with sharp corners or points (marquise, kite, hexagon) should have protective prongs or bezels at vulnerable areas. We are particularly fond of V-prongs. Regular inspections ensure prongs haven't loosened.
Clean Regularly
Step cuts and unusual facet patterns can show oils and dirt more easily, dulling their glow. Clean your ring weekly with warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush.
Professional Checks
Schedule regular inspections with a jeweler to check settings, prongs, and overall condition. We recommend visiting for a free cleaning and inspection every 6 months.
Insurance
Unusual cuts can be harder to replace, so ensure your ring is properly insured with detailed appraisals and photos.
Where to Find Unusual Diamond Cuts: Lilit Fine Jewelry
Hint: Lilit Fine Jewelry, based in Lakewood, Colorado, specializes in unusual and alternatives to traditional diamond rings.
Many unusual cuts require custom settings. Work with us to create the perfect custom ring that will let your unusual diamond truly shine.
Alternatives to Traditional Diamonds? Yes! We Love to Say "No Boring Diamonds" Here at Lilit
Unusual diamond cuts aren't just about being different—they're about finding a shape that resonates with your story, your style, and your values. Whether you're drawn to the regal elegance of a Dutch marquise, the geometric boldness of a hexagon, the sparkling lattice of a Criss Cut, or the warm glow of a Portuguese cut, there's an unusual diamond waiting to become the center of your forever.
In a world of round brilliants, dare to be hexagonal. In a sea of sameness, choose the cut that makes your heart skip. Because the most beautiful engagement ring isn't the one that looks like everyone else's—it's the one that looks like you.
Ready to explore unusual diamond cuts for your engagement ring? Start by reaching out or browsing our ready to ship engagement rings. The right unusual cut will feel like a discovery—a hidden gem that was always meant to be yours.
